After our epic Machu Picchu excursion, we hopped back onto the PeruRail to arrive at our next destination, Ollantaytambo. From here, we hired a private taxi to drive us back to our home base in Cusco. This mode of transportation granted us the flexibility to travel at our own pace, as we made our way through the agricultural region of the Sacred Valley & had planned to explore some sites off the beaten path. Without the limitations of a guided tour, we were able to visit two lesser known Inca sites, Moray & Maras, as well as the quaint little town of Chinchero in just half a day.

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Entrance Fees for Moray & Maras

The entrance fees for Moray & Maras cost 10 soles (3 USD) per location. However, there are several ticket packages that grant you access to a variety of sites for a much greater deal.

Because we were short on time, we purchased the partial Boleto Turistico Circuit #3 for 70 soles (25 USD). The ticket was valid for two days & included admission into Pisac, Ollantaytambo, & Chinchero, all in the Sacred Valley. If you have extra days to explore, you may choose the full Cusco Tourist Ticket that costs 130 soles (46 USD). This ticket is valid for 10 days & allows access to 16 popular attractions around the city including the Cusco Cathedral, Church of San Blas, & Sacsayhuaman.

Both tickets may be purchased through the COSITUC website or at their main office located in Cusco. There is no limited number of daily visitors like at Machu Picchu, so you can get them at any time. Also keep in mind that neither of the tickets include the Maras salt mines.

Moray, an Ancient Agricultural Laboratory

Approximately 31 miles northwest of Cusco is Moray, an Inca engineering wonder that resembles alien crop circles. Unlike the extraterrestrial phenomenon, researchers believe Moray once served as an agricultural laboratory. Amazingly, it never floods here due to the ingenious architecture of underground channel systems.

Moray consists of three enormous pits with concentric terraces carved into the terrain. Giant stone steps protrude from the walls to allow access to the bottom. The distance between the top & the bottom of the site is so significant that there is a temperature difference of 27°F. Each ring layer has its own micro-climate similar to modern-day greenhouses. Thus, researchers believe that the Incas conducted open-air agricultural experiments on crops & soil on these terraces. They were also used to domesticate & acclimatize different species of plants at high altitudes.

Pollen samples discovered at the site lead to the theory that the Incas may have even conducted cross-breeding to create hybrid species. It is estimated that 250 plant species were first cultivated in Moray & 60 percent of the world’s food crops originated from the Andes. Due to the Incas agricultural advancements, we now have many kinds of grains, quinoa, beans, potatoes, & corn to enjoy.

Salt Mines of Maras

East of Moray is the peaceful town of Maras, known for their salt mines, Salineras. The glistening, salt-encrusted ponds are an extraordinary sight & a unique backdrop for photographs. To gain access to this site, you need to purchase a separate ticket for 10 soles (3 USD). Unlike many other sites in Peru, the salt ponds are not controlled by the government & thus proceeds go directly to the co-ops that operate them.

Historians believe the mines were first constructed in pre-Inca times by the Wari civilization. After the Incas took over, they expanded the area among the hills of Qaqawiñay Mountain to increase harvest & trade. Now there are approximately 3,000 salt ponds, each belonging to a community family. The ponds are no bigger than 13 square feet & are less than a foot deep. An underground salt stream funnels through various channels to fill the descending terraced ponds with water. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind a bed of salt. The locals of Maras carefully monitor & control the wells. Once the water becomes super saturated & salt begins to precipitate, they close off the water feeder. A pond keeper then scrapes the salt for collection & reopens the feeder to start the process all over again.

Along with the Himalayas, Maras is one of only a few locations in the world where you can find natural pink salt. The rose-gold color comes from the elements of spring water including calcium, magnesium, & potassium. You will observe varying hues of pink depending on where the pond is at in its evaporation process & the direction of the sunlight. It is an otherworldly sight that reminds me of the surface of another planet.

The Colorful Chinchero Market

Chinchero is a lovely Andean town which many people consider as Peru’s center for traditional weaving. Known as the ‘birthplace of the rainbow,’ it provides stunning panoramic views across the potato fields during the rainy season. But its true colors are vibrantly showcased through the textiles & the beautiful work that is produced by the talented indigenous community.

Because the popular Pisac market was closed at the time of our visit, we skipped over to Chinchero & watched an intimate demonstration of the locals’ artistry. As we sipped on hot coca tea, the women showed us how alpaca wool was washed, dyed, & spun into a variety of garments. It was truly inspiring to learn about the all organic technique of soaking food, plants, & even insects in water to create colorful dyes!

Angella’s Travel Tips

• When visiting the sites in the Sacred Valley, I recommend traveling by private taxi, as opposed to a tour bus. This will provide you the freedom to check out the different areas on your own schedule. Just to get an idea of fares, hiring a taxi at Ollantaytambo may cost approximately 80-100 soles (25-30 USD).
• In Chinchero Market, we personally felt a little pressured as the women kept encouraging us to purchase their goods. Although their prices were a tad bit higher & they were less willing to negotiate, we didn’t want to leave empty handed. Acknowledging that business may be a little slower here than in Cusco & with the reassurance that proceeds would go towards a good cause, I bought a lovely alpaca shawl. No regrets.